This eBook shows you how to TEST COMPONENTS. To do this you need "TEST GEAR." The best item of Test Gear is a MULTIMETER. It can test almost 90% of all components. And that's what we will do in this eBook:
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[size=32]CONTENTS[/size] | Analogue Multimeter Audio Stages Batteries - testing Burnt Resistor Buying A Multimeter Capacitors Capacitors in Parallel Cells - batteries Circuit Symbols Co-Ax Cables Colour Code (Resistor) Coils Continuity Creating any value of R Current - measuring Damper Diodes Darlington Transistors Digital Chips Digital Multimeter Diodes Earth Leakage Detectors Electrolytics FETs Focus pots Fuses Germanium Diodes Impedance - of a stage IC's - also called Digital Chips IC's - Analogue Chips "In-Circuit" testing Inductors Inductors - measuring Integrated Circuits Isolation Transformer LEDs Logic Probe MkIIB Logic Probe - Simple Logic Probe - using CD4001 Logic Probe - using CD4011 Making your own components Measuring Resistance Measuring Voltage Mica Washers and Insulators Motor - testing MOSFETs | Multimeters Non-polar Capacitor (electrolytic) "Open" Resistor - damaged Opto-couplers Parallel - resistors Piezo Diaphragms Piezo Buzzers Potentiometers Pots - testing Power Diodes Relays Remote Controls Resistor Colour Code Resistor Networks Resistors - series Schottky Diodes SCRs Symbols Signal Injector Silicon diodes Soldering Spark Gaps Super Probe MkII Surface Mount - Packs Surface-Mount Resistors Surface-Mount Resistor Markings Switches Testing A Circuit Testing A Resistor Testing Components "In-Circuit" Transformers Transistor Outlines Transistors Triacs Unknown resistors - testing Using A Multimeter Voltage Regulators Voltages on a circuit Yokes Zener Diodes 4-Band Resistors 5-Band Resistors |
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There are two types: DIGITAL and ANALOGUE A Digital Multimeter has a set of digits on the display and an Analogue Multimeter has a scale with a pointer (or needle). You really need both types to cover the number of tests needed for designing and repair-work. We will discuss how they work, how to use them and some of the differences between them.
[ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذا الرابط]BUYING A MULTIMETERThere are many different types on the market. The cost is determined by the number of ranges and also the extra features such as diode tester, buzzer (continuity), transistor tester, high DC current and others. Since most multimeters are reliable and accurate, buy one with the greatest number of ranges at the lowest cost. This article explains the difference between a cheap analogue meter, an expensive analogue meter and a digital meter. You will then be able to work out which two meters you should buy. Multimeters are sometimes called a "meter", a "VOM" (Volts-Ohms-Milliamps or Volt Ohm Meter) or "multi-tester" or even "a tester" - they are all the same. [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذا الرابط]USING A MULTIMETERAnalogue and digital multimeters have either a rotary selector switch or push buttons to select the appropriate function and range. Some Digital Multimeter (DMMs) are auto ranging; they automatically select the correct range of voltage, resistance, or current when doing a test. However you need to select the function. Before making any measurement you need to know what you are checking. If you are measuring voltage, select the AC range (10v, 50v, 250v, or 1000v) or DC range (0.5v, 2.5v, 10v, 50v, 250v, or 1000v). If you are measuring resistance, select the Ohms range (x1, x10, x100, x1k, x10k). If you are measuring current, select the appropriate current range DCmA 0.5mA, 50mA, 500mA. Every multimeter is different however the photo below shows a low cost meter with the basic ranges. The most important point to remember is this: You must select a voltage or current range that is bigger or HIGHER than the maximum expected value, so the needle does not swing across the scale and hit the "end stop." If you are using a DMM (Digital Multi Meter), the meter will indicate if the voltage or current is higher than the selected scale, by showing "OL" - this means "Overload." If you are measuring resistance such as 1M on the x10 range the "OL" means "Open Loop" and you will need to change the range. Some meters show "1' on the display when the measurement is higher than the display will indicate and some flash a set of digits to show over-voltage or over-current. A "-1" indicates the leads should be reversed for a "positive reading." If it is an AUTO RANGING meter, it will automatically produce a reading, otherwise the selector switch must be changed to another range. [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة]The Common (negative) lead ALWAYS fits into the "COM" socket. The red lead fits into the red socket for Voltage and Resistance. Place the red lead (red banana plug) into "A" (for HIGH CURRENT "Amps") or mA,uA for LOW CURRENT. The black "test lead" plugs into the socket marked "-" "Common", or "Com," and the red "test lead" plugs into meter socket marked "+" or "V-W-mA." The third banana socket measures HIGH CURRENT and the positive (red lead) plugs into this. You DO NOT move the negative "-" lead at any time. The following two photos show the test leads fitted to a digital meter. The probes and plugs have "guards" surrounding the probe tips and also the plugs so you can measure high voltages without getting near the voltage-source. Analogue meters have an "Ohms Adjustment" to allow for the change in voltage of the battery inside the meter (as it gets old). "Ohms Adjust" is also called "ZERO SET"The sensitivity of this meter is 20,000ohms/volt on the DC ranges and 5k/v on the AC ranges
Before taking a resistance reading (each time on any of the Ohms scales) you need to "ZERO SET" the scale, by touching the two probes together and adjust the pot until the needle reads "0" (swings FULL SCALE). If the pointer does not reach full scale, the batteries need replacing. Digital multimeters do not need "zero adjustment." [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذا الرابط]MEASURING VOLTAGEMost of the readings taken with a multimeter will be VOLTAGE readings. Before taking a reading, you should select the highest range and if the needle does not move up scale (to the right), you can select another range. Always switch to the highest range before probing a circuit and keep your fingers away from the component being tested. If the meter is Digital, select the highest range or use the auto-ranging feature, by selecting "V." The meter will automatically produce a result, even if the voltage is AC or DC. If the meter is not auto-ranging, you will have to select [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة] if the voltage is from a DC source or [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة] if the voltage is from an AC source. DC means Direct Current and the voltage is coming from a battery or supply where the voltage is steady and not changing and AC means Alternating Current where the voltage is coming from a voltage that is rising and falling. You can measure the voltage at different points in a circuit by connecting the black probe to chassis. This is the 0v reference and is commonly called "Chassis" or "Earth" or "Ground" or "0v." The red lead is called the "measuring lead" or "measuring probe" and it can measure voltages at any point in a circuit. Sometimes there are "test points" on a circuit and these are wires or loops designed to hold the tip of the red probe (or a red probe fitted with a mini clip). You can also measure voltages ACROSS A COMPONENT. In other words, the reading is taken in PARALLEL with the component. It may be the voltage across a transistor, resistor, capacitor, diode or coil. In most cases this voltage will be less than the supply voltage. If you are measuring the voltage in a circuit that has a HIGH IMPEDANCE, the reading will be inaccurate, up to 90% !!!, if you use a cheap analogue meter. Here's a simple case. The circuit below consists of two 1M resistors in series. The voltage at the mid point will be 5v when nothing is connected to the mid point. But if we use a cheap analogue multimeter set to 10v, the resistance of the meter will be about 100k, if the meter has a sensitivity of 10k/v and the reading will be incorrect. Here how it works: Every meter has a sensitivity. The sensitivity of the meter is the sensitivity of the movement and is the amount of current required to deflect the needle FULL SCALE. This current is very small, normally 1/10th of a milliamp and corresponds to a sensitivity of 10k/volt (or 1/30th mA, for a sensitivity of 30k/v). If an analogue meter is set to 10v, the internal resistance of the meter will be 100k for a 10k/v movement. If this multimeter is used to test the following circuit, the reading will be inaccurate. The reading should be 5v as show in diagram A. But the analogue multimeter has an internal resistance of 100k and it creates a circuit shown in C. The top 1M and 100k from the meter create a combined PARALLEL resistance of 90k. This forms a series circuit with the lower 1M and the meter will read less than 1v If we measure the voltage across the lower 1M, the 100k meter will form a value of resistance with the lower 1M and it will read less than 1v If the multimeter is 30k/v, the readings will be 2v. See how easy it is to get a totally inaccurate reading. [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة]
This introduces two new terms: [url=http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Testing Electronic Components/TestingComponents.html#46]HIGH IMPEDANCE CIRCUIT[/url] and "RESISTORS in [url=http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Testing Electronic Components/TestingComponents.html#20]SERIES[/url] and [url=http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Testing Electronic Components/TestingComponents.html#20]PARALLEL[/url]." If the reading is taken with a Digital Meter, it will be more accurate as a DMM does not take any current from the circuit (to activate the meter). In other words it has a very HIGH input impedance. Most Digital Multimeters have a fixed input resistance (impedance) of 10M - no matter what scale is selected. That's the reason for choosing a DMM for high impedance circuits. It also gives a reading that is accurate to about 1%.MEASURING VOLTAGES IN A CIRCUITYou can take many voltage-measurements in a circuit. You can measure "across" a component, or between any point in a circuit and either the positive rail or earth rail (0v rail). In the following circuit, the 5 most important voltage-measurements are shown. Voltage "A" is across the electret microphone. It should be between 20mV and 500mV. Voltage "B" should be about 0.6v. Voltage "C" should be about half-rail voltage. This allows the transistor to amplify both the positive and negative parts of the waveform. Voltage "D" should be about 1-3v. Voltage "E" should be the battery voltage of 12v.
[ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذا الرابط]MEASURING CURRENTYou will rarely need to take current measurements, however most multimeters have DC current ranges such as 0.5mA, 50mA, 500mA and 10Amp (via the extra banana socket) and some meters have AC current ranges. Measuring the current of a circuit will tell you a lot of things. If you know the normal current, a high or low current can let you know if the circuit is overloaded or not fully operational. Current is always measured when the circuit is working (i.e: with power applied). It is measured IN SERIES with the circuit or component under test. The easiest way to measure current is to remove the fuse and take a reading across the fuse-holder. Or remove one lead of the battery or turn the project off, and measure across the switch. If this is not possible, you will need to remove one end of a component and measure with the two probes in the "opening." Resistors are the easiest things to desolder, but you may have to cut a track in some circuits. You have to get an "opening" so that a current reading can be taken. The following diagrams show how to connect the probes to take a CURRENT reading. Do not measure the current ACROSS a component as this will create a "short-circuit." The component is designed to drop a certain voltage and when you place the probes across this component, you are effectively adding a "link" or "jumper" and the voltage at the left-side of the component will appear on the right-side. This voltage may be too high for the circuit being supplied and the result will be damage.
[ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة] Do NOT measure the CURRENT of a battery(by placing the meter directly across the terminals)A battery will deliver a very HIGH current and damage the meter
Do not measure the "current a battery will deliver" by placing the probes across the terminals. It will deliver a very high current and damage the meter instantly. There are special battery testing instruments for this purpose. When measuring across an "opening" or "cut," place the red probe on the wire that supplies the voltage (and current) and the black probe on the other wire. This will produce a "POSITIVE" reading. A positive reading is an UPSCALE READING and the pointer will move across the scale - to the right. A "NEGATIVE READING" will make the pointer hit the "STOP" at the left of the scale and you will not get a reading. If you are using a Digital Meter, a negative sign "-" will appear on the screen to indicate the probes are around the wrong way. No damage will be caused. It just indicates the probes are connected incorrectly. If you want an accurate CURRENT MEASUREMENT, use a digital meter.
[ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذا الرابط]MEASURING RESISTANCE Turn a circuit off before measuring resistance. If any voltage is present, the value of resistance will be incorrect. In most cases you cannot measure a component while it is in-circuit. This is because the meter is actually measuring a voltage across a component and calling it a "resistance." The voltage comes from the battery inside the meter. If any other voltage is present, the meter will produce a false reading. If you are measuring the resistance of a component while still "in circuit," (with the power off) the reading will be lower than the true reading. [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة] Measuring resistance
1. Do not measure the "resistance of a battery." The resistance of a battery (called the Internal impedance) is not measured as shown in the diagrams above. It is measured by creating a current-flow and measuring the voltage across the battery. Placing a multimeter set to resistance (across a battery) will destroy the meter. 2. Do not try to measure the resistance of any voltage or any "supply." Resistance is measured in OHMs. The resistance of a 1cm x 1cm bar, one metre long is 1 ohm. If the bar is thinner, the resistance is higher. If the bar is longer, the resistance is higher. If the material of the bar is changed, the resistance is higher. When carbon is mixed with other elements, its resistance increases and this knowledge is used to make RESISTORS. Resistors have RESISTANCE and the main purpose of a resistor is to reduce the CURRENT FLOW. It's a bit like standing on a hose. The flow reduces. When current flow is reduced, the output voltage is also reduced and that why the water does not spray up so high. Resistors are simple devices but they produce many different effects in a circuit. A resistor of nearly pure carbon may be 1 ohm, but when non-conducting "impurities" are added, the same-size resistor may be 100 ohms, 1,000 ohms or 1 million ohms. Circuits use values of less than 1 ohm to more than 22 million ohms. Resistors are identified on a circuit with numbers and letters to show the exact value of resistance - such as 1k 2k2 4M7 The letter W (omega - a Greek symbol) is used to identify the word "Ohm." but this symbol is not available on some word-processors, so the letter "R" is used. The letter "E" is also sometimes used and both mean "Ohms." A one-ohm resistor is written "1R" or "1E." It can also be written "1R0" or "1E0." A resistor of one-tenth of an ohm is written "0R1" or "0E1." The letter takes the place of the decimal point. 10 ohms = 10R 100 ohms = 100R 1,000 ohms = 1k (k= kilo = one thousand) 10,000 ohms = 10k 100,000 ohms = 100k 1,000,000 ohms = 1M (M = MEG = one million) The size of a resistor has nothing to do with its resistance. The size determines the wattage of the resistor - how much heat it can dissipate without getting too hot. Every resistor is identified by colour bands on the body, but when the resistor is a surface-mount device, numbers are used and sometimes letters. You MUST learn the colour code for resistors and the following table shows all the colours for the most common resistors from 1/10th of an ohm to 22 Meg ohms for resistors with 5% and 10% tolerance. [ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة]
If 3rd band is gold, Divide by 10 If 3rd band is silver, Divide by 100 (to get 0.22ohms etc)
[ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذه الصورة][ندعوك للتسجيل في المنتدى أو التعريف بنفسك لمعاينة هذا الرابط]Reading 4-band resistorsThe most "common" type of resistor has 4 bands and is called the 10% resistor. It now has a tolerance of 5% but is still called the "10% type" as the colours increase by 20% so that a resistor can be 10% higher or 10% lower than a particular value and all the resistors produced in a batch can be used. The first 3 bands produce the resistance and the fourth band is the "tolerance" band. Gold = 5% (Silver =10% but no modern resistors are 10%!! - they are 5% 2% or 1%) Here is another well-designed resistor colour code chart: |